Anya Hindmarch Brings Unique Flavors Back to Ice Cream Parlour
This season, fashion designer Anya Hindmarch has pushed creative boundaries like never before.
Instead of unveiling a distinctive bag or accessory, she captivates with an array of unconventional ice cream flavours at her annual pop-up ice cream parlour.
Each summer, the renowned British designer, famous for her playful handbags and accessories, opens the Ice Cream Project near her store on Pont Street in Knightsbridge, offering scoops priced at £4.50 that are inspired by beloved food brands.
In previous years, patrons have enjoyed unusual concoctions such as Branston Pickle and cheese, Heinz tomato ketchup, and Ambrosia rice pudding. This year, she introduces even bolder options, including Bisto gravy, sriracha chilli sauce, and Twiglets, alongside more traditional offerings like Ovaltine, Kendal Mint Cake, and Rowse honey.
Ahead of the opening next Friday, Hindmarch granted an exclusive tasting of the new flavours, sparking excitement and, at times, skepticism.
Historically, ice cream has embraced bold flavours. While Heston Blumenthal is often credited with pioneering savoury ice cream with his nitro-scrambled egg and bacon in 2001, the 18th century saw flavours like artichoke, avocado, and even whale vomit (ambergris) being used to enhance ice cream’s taste and texture. Thus, the public might consider themselves fortunate that Hindmarch’s creations, despite their unusual nature, have already traversed the previous extremes of flavour experimentation.
During the tasting, guided by Times assistant fashion editor Hannah Rogers, the experience began with a Copella apple juice sorbet. While it was somewhat on the sugary side and lacked a robust apple flavor, it remained a pleasant option. The Ovaltine flavour, reminiscent of drinking milk from a bowl of Shreddies, and the returning Bird’s custard and Maldon sea salt with chocolate impressed those familiar with last year’s offerings.
Quaker’s oats provided an experience akin to enjoying cold porridge, delivering an unexpected heft that most don’t associate with ice cream. Meanwhile, the Twiglets flavour fell short, lacking the promised crunch and character. Surprisingly, the Bisto gravy flavour defied expectations; any meaty essence dissipated quickly, overshadowed by the sweetness of dulce de leche.
However, the tasting took a turn for the worse with the Filippo Berio olive oil ice cream, which missed the mark. Rather than adding a fragrant counterbalance to the vanilla, it introduced an unwelcome mustiness. Lastly, the Flying Goose sriracha flavour didn’t quite succeed, tasting more like spicy mayonnaise oversweetened with sugar.
Fortunately, one bright spot came as the sample of Garner’s pickled onions was delayed, sparing tasters from that experience.
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