Upon reaching Broadstairs, one might feel like a character from a Victorian novel, often depicted as recovering from heartbreak by taking refuge at the seaside.

As I stroll between the expansive promenade and the historic residence of Charles Dickens, I half expect a statement from Josh about losing everything in a failing investment, prompting me to seek my first experience of hard labor.

The purpose of our visit, however, is not to savor the seaside breeze but to dine at Fifteen Square Metres — a restaurant aptly named for its compact size. The intimate space fosters a connection among diners. In a nod to those Victorian days, made without smartphones, fellow diners were curious about our choice of wine.

Our drink of choice was Bedoba orange wine, a delightful Georgian skin-contact variety crafted from kisi and rkatsiteli grapes. Its lightly tangy, honey-gold profile, as Josh recommended, serves as an excellent introduction to orange wines — a refreshing contrast to more challenging options. This recommendation spurred our neighbors to order a bottle, much to the owner’s delight. At that moment, it felt like we were the distinguished guests of this tiny establishment.

But of course, the true hosts are Tony and Becky Rodd, previously proprietors of Copper & Ink in southeast London. Rising costs and the financial burden of city life forced their move. Adorned with tattoos, and Tony sporting a twisted mustache, they challenge stereotypes of those who “escape from London,” yet have genuinely embraced their new home.

“I mourn the end of what became my passion,” reflected Tony, a MasterChef finalist in 2015, upon the closure of Copper & Ink last year. This sentiment resonates deeply. Is this the fate of London, a hub now dominated by uninspired dining options catering to the elite?

If this trend continues, historic towns nearby become the real winners as talented chefs venture to more affordable locales, leading to the emergence of exceptional new dining spots that combine modern flair.

Fifteen Square Metres stands as a noteworthy example. Its charm and warmth echo a young woman’s rented room, decorated in soft pinks with numerous plants and vibrant wall art. Our menu selections included a half portion of burrata drizzled with garlic oil and accompanied by a grainy romesco sauce, serving as a perfect complement to the rich cheese, alongside refreshing grilled courgettes.

Next, we enjoyed thin fillets of harissa-marinated mackerel on a robust salsa crafted from olives, celery, and capers. We also savored a dish featuring halloumi with almonds, pickled raisins, and honey-mustard roasted cauliflower, artfully combined with chermoula, a fragrant North African herb mix.

The offerings are refreshingly straightforward. With Tony and Becky manning both the kitchen and the dining area, space is at a premium — their kitchen is about the size of a standard dining table, which I often find too cramped.

All the time invested in traditional culinary techniques at high-end London establishments is redirected here towards thoughtful flavor combinations, like Moroccan chicken tagine rillettes paired cleverly with crostini and a French-style apricot chutney.

For dessert, we sampled chocolate orange crèmeux, reminiscent of Quality Street, accompanied by a raspberry sorbet. While the combination was almost overwhelming in sweetness, a sprinkle of citrusy micro coriander harmonized the dish perfectly.

The flavors were invigorating, capable of revitalizing even the frailest Victorian lady. Afterward, we occupied one of the two small tables outside to bask in the late afternoon sun, casually sharing our wine. A nearby diner’s curiosity about our bottle led him to order one for himself.