This week, I had the pleasure of dining at a restaurant owned by a good friend, Jonathan Downey, a notable figure in the culinary scene. Despite my initial hesitation to review it, I simply couldn’t resist sharing my experience after tasting the remarkable food. My curiosity was piqued, and I wanted to ensure I took credit for this culinary gem when the praises began to flow.

On my visit to Town, I was pleasantly surprised. The following day, I ran into Beth Coventry at the Wells Tavern, who mentioned her sister Fay Maschler, a well-respected restaurant critic, had also recently dined at Town and loved it. This certainly solidified my excitement about the restaurant’s quality.

Adding to this consensus, Tom Parker Bowles, another prominent food critic, reached out to say he adored Town, claiming it to be the best restaurant of the year thus far. This collective acclaim was undeniable.

To observe the dining experience more objectively, I invited Tony Turnbull, the food editor for The Times, to join me. I felt confident his presence would ensure an honest review.

Located on Drury Lane, JD was full of energy, sharing details about the restaurant’s unique décor and his innovative ideas for small-serve meals tailored for modern diners. Watching chef Stevie Parle, his long-time collaborator, work in the open kitchen was a calming and insightful experience.

We began with refreshing Helles lager served in frosted glasses and were treated to some delicious fried sage leaves drizzled with honey and topped with chili. The highlight was an exquisite warm loaf of potato sourdough paired with what they call “Town house gravy,” a rich bowl of hot beef drippings that was simply irresistible.

This dish echoed the sentiments of chef Nigel Slater, showcasing that often the most flavorful components are those that never make it to the formal plate.

Next, we enjoyed a “Gilda,” a delightful combination of soused mackerel, cucumber wrapped in shiso leaf, and a spicy pickled chili. This was followed by wafer-thin cured mangalitsa shoulder with “100-acre radishes” served with a rich miso dipping sauce that was so tasty I found myself eating the radish leaves with the remnants of the sauce.

The dishes were reasonably priced for the quality, with the “Gilda” at £3.50 and the ham at £16 for six slices. Such prices are expected for exceptional food in London, where dining out can easily exceed £80 per person.

Continuing with the meal, the “East Kent asparagus,” presented thick and wrapped in lardo, was a delightful combination at just £3 each or £15 for five. Each bite showcased a wonderful transformation, breathing new life into the vegetable.

The clams were among the best I’ve encountered, though slightly salty. They were cooked in sherry, but I wished for a bit more acidity to balance the flavors.

However, the dish featuring bone marrow on Kashmiri saffron risotto was a standout. This indulgent offering, focused solely on the marrow, was both decadent and satisfying at £17.

Next, the raw day boat crudo and a hefty pork chop, paired with burnt apple sauce, showcased their commitment to quality ingredients and thoughtful preparation.

The meal was a delightful mix of classic and contemporary dishes, each showcasing different influences and culinary techniques. A few days later, I returned for a business lunch and enjoyed a set menu at £32, which included a tartare that was both flavorful and well-balanced.

While the atmosphere in the evenings is vibrant, I find myself drawn to the quieter daytime experiences. I’m eager to return regularly—perhaps even daily—if they welcome me back.

Town26-29 Drury Lane, London WC2 (020 3500 7515; town.restaurant)Cooking 9Produce 9Look 9Score 9Price I spent £250 on an extravagant lunch for two with wine, and I later enjoyed a fantastic four-course meal for £32, both of which offered excellent value.