Paul Hollywood: ‘I’ve been in a continuous midlife crisis since I was 17’

Paul Hollywood, the judge of The Great British Bake Off, shares his whimsical aspiration—not to perfect sourdough or brioche, but rather to pilot his own helicopter for culinary adventures.

“I’m tired of traffic jams,” he expresses with a wistful look, his blue eyes clouded with daydreams, his Wirral dialect rich and warm. “I’ve spent much of my life stuck in them. I want to use a helicopter for fun trips, like flying to France just for a croissant. I’ve yet to do that, but it’s on my list.”

As he approaches his 60th birthday, Hollywood is known for his hobbies that include motorbiking, racing, and taking flying lessons. When questioned about a midlife crisis, he chuckles, “I’ve been in a continuous midlife crisis since I was 17. Just ask my friends. Now that I have more means, I can indulge in bigger toys, but fundamentally, nothing has changed. Who knows? Next year I might even join a band.”

Reflecting on his early career, he recalls leaving art school at 17 to start an apprenticeship at his father’s bakery chain, Breadwinner, which had twelve shops. “I never envisioned doing what I do now,” he admits. “Whenever I go back to Liverpool and meet up with some of the guys from the bakery, they express pride in my success, but it leaves me feeling somewhat guilty. It’s probably an impostor syndrome, but it’s a struggle for me. I moved on while some of them continued in the same roles, and my experiences in racing have only kept me grounded.”

As he plans to enter his seventh decade, he reflects, “Other milestones, like 40 or 50, didn’t bother me, but 60 feels significant. It feels like the beginning of the end, especially since you’re getting close to retirement age. I asked some of the Bake Off crew what turning 60 is like, and they just said ‘hell.'” Typically, he and his wife Melissa Spalding, whom he married three years ago, travel abroad for his birthday. “Next year, I’m considering hosting a party at home, but it will be more for my family than for me. I just want to enjoy myself and stay healthy.”

Paul Hollywood and Melissa Spalding at a film premiere.

Currently, Hollywood appears to be in great spirits. He is in the café at the Big Cat Sanctuary in Smarden, Kent, which is dedicated to rescuing and breeding endangered wild cat species from all over the world, including several brought from Kyiv Zoo during the Ukraine conflict. He speaks against the backdrop of a lioness sunbathing just beyond the large glass window behind him. He seems comfortably at ease, his signature silver hair complemented by a sun-kissed tan, with his waistline slightly deviating from his Bake Off judge standards.

Hollywood reflects on his time in the public eye, stating, “I’ve grown up alongside Bake Off. Just the other day, someone mentioned watching my first episode, and they joked about my outrageous shirts! My hair was much darker back then. I’ve essentially become the culinary version of Santa Claus, thicker and whiter! But I’m okay with that.”

He has mentioned that fame comes with extravagant perks but has also isolated him, turning him into a “hermit” who is reluctant to leave his four-bedroom farmhouse surrounded by eight acres in a nearby village—largely due to his unease with paparazzi. While we are chatting, patrons in the café are openly filming him with their phones, a phenomenon he never anticipated when he first joined a BBC series centered around baking. “Nobody thought it would take off,” he recalls.

Despite the backlash he received when it was revealed he had an affair on a different baking show, his transition from the BBC to Channel 4 with Bake Off has ultimately proven successful. His former co-host Mary Berry along with presenters Sue Perkins and Mel Giedroyc chose to exit the show when it switched networks, a decision that may now seem overly dramatic considering the show maintained its popularity and format.

“We’ve now spent longer with Channel 4 than with the BBC,” he remarks. In his time there, he has worked alongside Prue Leith, and the show has surprisingly gained massive popularity in the U.S., being available on Netflix a day after airing in the UK. “It’s amusing because when I speak with Americans about my bond with Mary, they often look confused—‘Who’s Mary?’”

Hollywood has previously mentioned how his newfound American fame has connected him with celebrities like Hugh Jackman and Michael J. Fox. He enjoys a close friendship with Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds, who frequently tune into Bake Off. “Blake and Ryan are huge fans. During a YouTube clip, Ryan said Bake Off was like serotonin for them during lockdown. The show resonates well in American culture. In Deadpool 3, a character mentions watching Bake Off, and I couldn’t believe it. It’s a peculiar experience. Americans enjoy the nostalgic and relaxed nature of it compared to their typical fast-paced shows, which rapidly change focus. Bake Off offers a calming, meditative quality with its longer shots of the baked goods followed by gentle music.”

Revisiting the format of Baking shows, Hollywood emphasizes that he now spends part of his summer in the UK judging Bake Off before heading to the U.S. for The Great American Baking Show. When asked about the tone of the American contestants, he says, “They’re definitely louder and more exuberant. There’s a lot of applause and cheering, quite different from the UK’s more subdued atmosphere. The American version is incredibly fun and creates a unique vibe.”

Leith, known for her prestigious restaurant and cookery school, remains by his side for both versions of the show. The two share a genuine friendship, with Leith jokingly admitting that she sometimes calls her husband “Paul” by mistake. “I visited Prue a while back thinking I’d be pampered, but I ended up cooking,” Hollywood recounts, laughing at the memory of them managing to squeeze a chicken into her newly acquired air fryer, even as she struggled with the gadget. “It turned out great in the end. It’s ironic that the last person you’d expect to need help is the expert!”

Paul Hollywood with flour on his hands, smiling at the camera.

Beside his culinary reign, Hollywood has just launched his latest cookbook, Celebrate: Joyful Baking All Round, featuring delightful treats such as cherry marble traybake and elderflower cupcakes, which he describes as bakes meant to commemorate significant events in life. “I bake bread roughly three times a week as most supermarket bread lacks flavor and quality.” When it comes to store-bought bread, he admits, “Warburtons is acceptable for a bacon sandwich due to its thin loaves. However, people must be conscious of their food choices.”

Hollywood does indulge in creating more elaborate pastries every once in a while, sharing, “Those moments are relatively rare, generally every couple of months. I recently made Danish pastries since I prefer homemade when good shops are scarce. I used to churn out thousands daily.” When reflecting on a massive meringue nest created for a gathering, he remembers it as a noteworthy event but adds that it occurred a few years ago.

For a baking expert like him, he surprisingly allows for some shortcuts in his cookbook, noting, “Quality ready-made ingredients are fine for certain recipes, especially when it comes to pastry.” When pressingly questioned about specific pastries, he defiantly states, “Filo is the exceptions where I believe buying is acceptable—there’s no point in making that from scratch unless you’re really committed!” Though he believes that the difference between homemade and store-bought is apparent, he emphasizes that while quick options can be a lifesaver, the joy and memory of making pastry from scratch are worth pursuing.

Hollywood chuckles upon recalling a previous interview with former Bake Off host Sandi Toksvig, who remarked that her tenure on the show felt like the longest of her life because she found it puzzling. “Seeing her reaction, I can only laugh. Bake Off is far from boring. Unlike Sandi, who is immersed in her book work, if you allow yourself to engage with what transpires in the tent, it’s enlightening. You don’t learn from the contestants but enjoying watching their journey is invaluable. Often, the contestants with the most growth emerge victorious. One of them, Matty Edgell, comes to mind; I wouldn’t have predicted him winning, but he surprised everyone with his brilliance.”

Last year truly highlighted this notion, as the standout competitor Dylan Bachelet faltered in the final, caught in pressure during his showstopper round. “I thought he’d perform well, but he just unraveled. It’s not uncommon—just like in a big match at Wembley, an under-talent may outshine the favored team, entirely dependent on the day’s circumstances. Dylan had a professionalism that reminded me of my own journey; he was an impressive talent and a delightful young man.” Are they still in touch? “No, but I hear he’s working in a Michelin-starred restaurant. In the right environment, I’m confident he’ll thrive. He often appeared quite striking; once, I said, ‘Dylan, you look marvelous!’”

Returning to his more personal life, Hollywood relishes quiet moments with Spalding, along with their two British shorthair cats and two Maine coon cats, one of which tipped the scales at nine kilos. “One of our cats was injured last year, but Noel Fitzpatrick managed to save her. Her tail’s a bit off, but she’s recovering well.” Hollywood maintains his fitness routine playing table tennis with friends in his community. Although he used to enjoy cycling, he stopped due to paparazzi chasing him for shots while wearing Lycra. “Now I prefer to take long walks with Melissa, usually three to four miles. If paparazzi attempt to follow, I just cut across the fields.”

Paul Hollywood’s Ideal Weekend

Lie-in or workout? Lie-in

Handshake or hug? Handshake!

Baps or buns? That’s a regional choice—I’ll go with baps.

Prue or Mary? That’s unfair; I appreciate them both.

Alison or Noel? That’s like picking a favorite child; Alison adds excitement to the mix, while Noel is like a brother, kind and supportive to the bakers.

Green juice or Guinness? Green juice.

Signature dish? Risotto using whatever I have on hand, not something baked.

Last thing you googled? I wanted to learn more about the new American Pope.

Couldn’t get through the weekend without… a ride on my motorbike.

Post Comment