What is crispy, succulent, and capturing the attention of many protein enthusiasts? It’s rotisserie chicken. This year, the popularity of this supermarket staple has surged. Waitrose reports a remarkable 48% increase in sales of their Good to Go Roti Chicken Half compared to last year. If you stroll past the M&S Simply Food near St Paul’s in London during a weekday lunch hour, you’ll likely encounter throngs of professionals drawn to their enticing hot chicken section. Similar bustling scenes can be found at M&S Bankside, while M&S Brixton’s recently upgraded food hall features an entire arch dedicated to rotisserie chicken, reminiscent of a quaint French market, filled with patrons eagerly waiting to grab their barbecue-flavored chickens on their way home from work. Paired with a fresh salad, it makes for a quick and satisfying midweek dinner—especially for those hosting spontaneous gatherings.

But the phenomenon is not confined to popular high streets; trendy new eateries specializing solely in rotisserie chicken have also emerged. Venues like the Knave of Clubs in Shoreditch and Norbert’s in East Dulwich offer both take-out and dine-in experiences. Even London’s upscale dining scene is embracing spit-roasted chicken. Bébé Bob, connected to the renowned Soho restaurant Bob Bob Ricard, has made a name for itself with a rotisserie chicken, cocktail, and caviar-focused menu. Additionally, the stylish rotisserie chain Cocotte is set to unveil its seventh location in the city.

Chef Will Murray, owner of three of London’s most talked-about restaurants—Roe in Canary Wharf, Fallow in the West End, and Fowl, which specializes in fried chicken—attributes the success of his lunch offerings to the addition of rotisserie chicken, stating, “Ever since we put rotisserie chicken on the lunch menu, our lunchtime trade has tripled.” His Korean-style rotisserie chicken, priced at £18 and stuffed with Korean short-grain rice and shiitake mushrooms, is a favorite that creates a crispy caramelized texture as it cooks. In Bristol, Bokman serves a similar dish, featuring their slow-roasted tongdak chicken that is cooked for four hours in a traditional Korean rotisserie. Numerous restaurants, delis, and pubs are elevating rotisserie chickens to the status of this year’s must-try dish. Panzer’s deli, celebrated in north London and frequented by Nigella Lawson, has recently installed a sizable rotisserie. Meanwhile, Mayfair’s latest addition, Toum, puts a Lebanese twist on rotisserie chicken served with toum, a garlic sauce traditional to Lebanese cuisine. The upscale deli Farm Shop in central London now features a dedicated “chicken hotline” where even high-profile customers like Harry Styles call to order their rotisserie chickens.

According to Chef Patrick Powell of Knave of Clubs, which sells around 200 chickens each week, the resurgence of rotisserie chicken evokes a sense of nostalgia. “These chickens bring back memories of wandering through French markets, captivated by the sight of large rotisseries full of golden birds turning slowly, enticing everyone nearby,” Powell reminisces. “One of my fondest memories involves buying a rotisserie chicken from a market in La Rochelle, and enjoying it with some delicious potatoes on the kerbside.”

If you’re keen on recreating that rotisserie flavor at home, Nemanja Borjanovic, co-owner of Harley’s, a modern butcher and rotisserie in Hampstead, suggests, “The best method to achieve that sticky skin and tender meat is to dry brine the chicken the night before. Use 8g of salt for a 1.2kg chicken, seal it in a bag, and refrigerate overnight to allow moisture to escape and tenderize the meat. This technique will get you close to the rotisserie-like chicken experience at home.”

Supermarket Rotisserie Chicken Taste Test: Expert Reviews

M&S Whole Rotisserie Chicken

Price: £9

Taste: This chicken features a sole flavor—a light, sticky barbecue coating. It’s delicious, albeit potentially overly sweet and salty, making it ideal for hands-on consumption. The leftovers also yield excellent stock.

Crispiness: The skin achieves a perfect balance between crispy and gooey.

Juiciness: This chicken is impressively moist and falls easily off the bone.

Score: 5/5

Asda Extra Tasty Large Whole Chicken

Price: £6.98

Taste: Well-seasoned with spices and bell pepper, it’s savory but could benefit from a dash of extra salt.

Crispiness: Very crispy, maintaining its crunch even when reheated.

Juiciness: Exceptionally tender; no complaints here.

Score: 4/5

Waitrose Piri Piri Whole Rotisserie Chicken

Price: £7.50

Taste: A beautifully bronzed chicken, yet only a hint of piri piri flavor was detected—somewhat disappointing on the spice front.

Crispiness: Not crispy upon arrival, but flavorful, especially on the legs and wings.

Juiciness: The breast meat was slightly dry, while the legs were tender and the meat easily separated from the bone.

Score: 4/5

Morrisons Market Street Hot Whole Extra Tasty Roast Chicken

Price: £6.75

Taste: Lacking any glaze or distinctive flavor, it’s a straightforward chicken option.

Crispiness: Nicely browned but more moist than crunchy, falling short of homemade roasts.

Juiciness: Adequately tender around the legs; however, the breast was rather dry, and it seemed smaller than expected for a serving of four.

Score: 3/5

Sainsbury’s Whole Rotisserie Chicken

Price: £7

Taste: Labeled as “simply seasoned,” a tangy, sticky glaze is detectable.

Crispiness: While not overly crispy, the skin was flavorful and fatty.

Juiciness: The breast had good flavor but was a bit dry; on the other hand, the wings and legs were notably moist and tasty.

Score: 3/5

Perfect Pairings for Your Rotisserie Chicken

Anna Jones’s Warm New Potato Salad with White Miso

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 1kg new potatoes

• 800g asparagus

• 4 tbsp mayonnaise (vegan or otherwise)

• 2 tsp white miso

• Juice of ½ lemon or lime

• 200g radishes, washed and sliced

• A handful of spring onions or a bunch of chives, finely chopped

Method

1. Clean the potatoes and place them in a large saucepan covered with boiling water, generously seasoned with salt, cooking for 10-20 minutes depending on size. Meanwhile, trim the woody ends off the asparagus and cut the stems into 2cm pieces, leaving the tips intact. 2. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, miso, and citrus juice. Taste and adjust as needed. 3. Once the potatoes are fork-tender, add the asparagus for the last two minutes, then drain and let them steam dry in a colander. 4. When cool enough to handle, crush the potatoes lightly in a serving bowl. Add a spoonful of miso mayo and mix. Once the potatoes have cooled slightly, incorporate the asparagus, radishes, and remaining miso mayo, tossing to coat and serve.

Source: annajonesfood.substack.com